Leaving on a jet plane

Hello all,

This post comes to you from the Heathrow airport. I left Uganda this morning and am killing time during my layover. I should be flying to JFK in several hours, provided my flight does not get canceled or delayed due to volcano ash floating in from Iceland. Please keep your fingers crossed for me…

In the meantime, here is a quick update on my adventure beyond Uganda’s borders:

We ended up not actually leaving on Monday (as planned) because the bus was, surprisingly, sold out.  Apparently for international buses they do indeed sell tickets in advance, unlike other buses in Uganda. So we bought tickets for Tuesday and hung out in Kampala for an extra day on Monday. I was glad we did, though, because as I was walking downtown doing some errands, I ran into one of my friends from Gulu!  He was there on business, but we had no plans to meet; it was a total coincidence and it made my day.  I love when random things like that happen.

Anyway, we left on Tuesday at noon, on a direct bus from Kampala to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania.  The plan was to go to Tanzania first, spend two nights there, then head back to Kampala but stop for a day in Nairobi. It took us 32 hours to get to Dar es Salaam from Kampala! That is about how long it took me to get to Uganda from home (but in that case I had layovers, etc).  On the bus ride, we stopped occasionally for bathroom breaks, to go through customs at the borders, and for one meal, but other than that we drove straight through. We also stopped in Nairobi at 3AM to have tea. Yes, that’s right, tea. It really struck me as quite absurd, but also very African.  They love their tea here, and people drink it all the time. I actually really enjoy African tea (that’s actually what they call it), because they make it with hot milk instead of water and a lot of sugar…it’s delicious. We were very glad for the tea break, despite its odd timing, because we had been counting on the bus stopping at one of those places I told you about, where the vendors run up to the bus and sell food, for us to get dinner but it never did (which is strange, because all the other buses I have taken have stopped at many of them).  As we were driving down the highway, feeling rather hungry, I just thought to myself “that just goes to show you, nothing is ever guaranteed, especially in Uganda.”  Anyway, we took tea in a bus station that made every Greyhound station I have ever been in look luxurious.  It was more than a little sketchy, but I didn’t actually feel unsafe. We got one cup of tea and a piece of bread, served on metal dishes that were reminiscent of a homeless shelter or prison. It was bizarre. But at least it was food.

Anyway, after that we got back on the bus and headed for the Tanzanian border. It was interesting because I was thinking about our trip to Rwanda and how stark the contrast was between Uganda and Rwanda; as soon as we crossed the border, I could see a difference in my surroundings.  For this trip, that was not the case.  Uganda blended into Kenya which blended into Tanzania. I didn’t really see any huge differences between them, especially in the rural areas.  Kenya seemed perhaps a bit more “developed” (I hate that word), in the sense that there were fewer sheet metal shacks along the road, and Tanzania definitely felt a bit more organized than Uganda, but overall the rural areas were very similar.The strange thing about the Tanzanian countryside was that I didn’t see many people. We passed through so many small towns, which in Uganda are always swarming with people, but as we were passing those in Tanzania, I just kept thinking, “where are all the people?”

When we entered Dar es Salaam, my first thought was “oh, that’s where they are!” It was *packed* with people, congregating around street vendors and storefronts, or just kind of hanging out and having a beer.  We spent that night and the next day exploring the city, which seemed pretty nice.  It was somewhat more calm than Kampala, with a much more Arab feel to it. It also reminded me a bit of pictures I’ve seen of Mediterranean cities in Europe, perhaps because it is also a coastal city. There was much less “mzungu” yelling in Dar than there is in Kampala, which was a nice break. We didn’t have a ton of time, or much money, so we mostly had some of Bridget’s Tanzanian friends walk us around the city. We did eat some traditional Tanzanian food, which was not that different from some Ugandan food (their staple is maize posho, which they also eat in Uganda, but it’s called Ugali in Tanzania–it’s just  maize flour mixed with boiling water and stirred until it becomes somewhat firm and spongy. It is eaten with a sauce such as beans, meat, or peas), but in Tanzania it is meant to be eaten with your hands instead of silverware. I think it might be a skill that takes some practice. I made a noble effort though, and it was pretty good.  We also experimented with the public transportation in Dar, which is a system of busses called Dala Dalas. They are actually extremely similar to the Ugandan taxi system, except they make a good deal more sense because they are buses instead of vans, so people can get on and off much more easily. Sometimes the buses don’t even stop all the way, but slow down enough for people to jump on and off. They can also be packed more full than the Ugandan taxis though, and our rides were very crowded. I was very glad we experienced it, though, because I think one really needs to use the public transportation in a city to truly get a feel for how life works there. It was one of those experiences that made me chuckle to myself and think about how absurd life is sometimes.

Unfortunately, we discovered that the bus schedule between Dar and Nairobi did not line up with our plans. We would have needed to take a bus that left Dar in the evening to be able to spend a day in Nairobi, but we found out that buses only depart for Nairobi in the morning, so we had to cut Nairobi out of our plan. I’ll have to come back and visit that one another time. So from Dar es Salaam we got on another bus and journeyed back to Kampala, which took another 30 hours. Perhaps it was a little ridiculous to spend that much time on a bus for that little time in Dar, but I think it was worth it. Traveling through Africa by bus is an experience in itself, because you get to see so many things on the way. Of course, I would have liked to have more time, but our schedule was tight.

We arrived back to Kampala on Saturday afternoon, and my host mom picked us up from the bus station, then took us along on a seemingly endless string of errands, which culminated in visiting my host brother in the hospital. He had been admitted the previous night with a severe case of malaria and was in the process of receiving a string of IV drips for treatment. When I asked if anybody had stayed with him in the hospital, my host sister just said “he’s a man!” (he just turned 18, he’s a senior in high school). I followed up with “but he’s still young,” and she basically said that I was wrong. I just found that very interesting…I think most 18 year olds in the US would be accompanied to the hospital by their parents if they were admitted like that, but they seemed to think that idea was absurd. This speaks to two concepts I’ve come across in Uganda. The first is that children are forced to grow up very quickly there. I mean, I wouldn’t classify most 18-year-olds as children, but I think the concept is applicable. The second is that boys are pressured by society to be much more independent than girls. That has been a recurring theme in my discussions with many Ugandans on the subject of raising children. According to one father, “boys are raised to face any situation,” but girls do not need to face these situations themselves. I just found that to be an interesting occurrence. Don’t worry though, he was discharged from the hospital later that day (and escorted himself home on a taxi), and is feeling a lot better now.

Anyway, my internet time is almost up, and that’s about all I have to write at this point anyway. I spent Sunday hanging out with my family and doing some last-minute errands. My sister braided my hair in cornrows, which was fun (I’ve never had that done before), and we had a last meal together (the last matooke I’ll have in awhile, though I’ve been told there are a few Ugandan restaurants in Boston, so if I “miss it,” I’ll be able to find it…I think it will take awhile for me to miss it).

I am excited to come home, but also sad to leave. It was difficult to say goodbye to my host family, because they truly have become another family to me in the past four months. On the plane ride here, I wrote in my journal a long list of the things I will miss and won’t miss about Uganda, and things I am looking forward to and not looking forward to in the States. It was a fairly balanced list; there are things in all those categories. I might share bits of it later, but for now I am signing off. With any luck, the next time you hear from me, I will be back in the U.S.. Can’t wait to see all of you! Peace and love:)

School’s Out!

Hello everybody,

So as of Friday, my semester has officially ended.  I’ve turned in my 36 page final paper, signed all the paperwork, picked up my passport (the visa has been successfully extended, so I’m still in Uganda legally. Score!), and we’ve even had a “reintegration” lecture about what it will be like to return to the U.S.. The rest of my time in Uganda is mine to do with what I like.  I suppose this means I have gained two new labels: SIT alumnus and senior in college.  How did that happen? Even though school is over, I don’t think I will feel like this semester is over until I’m back on American soil.  I scheduled myself an extra 8 days in Uganda to do whatever I wanted to do after the program ended, so I’ll be hanging out here for awhile longer, while many of my program-mates fly home.

We spent the last week behaving like real tourists (something we have been trying very hard to avoid this whole time). Throughout my time living here, I have been careful to correct anyone who calls me a tourist or asks if I am here on holiday, because I think there is a significant distinction between the implications of “tourist” and “student.” But after practicum ended, the program took us to one of the most touristy locations in Uganda–a group of islands on Lake Victoria–to hang out while we did our final presentations. We stayed at a pretty cool resort while we were there.  It was sort of the type that is supposed to make you feel at one with nature: we slept in large huts right on the beach and had a bonfire every night under the stars.  You could tell that it was designed to target the interests of tourists who have come to Uganda for eco-tourism, and I guess it was pretty effective.  It was fun to just chill out and relax on the beach, though. When we returned to Kampala, we finally went to some of the local craft shops, which are so obviously targeted at tourists that we had been avoiding them, to buy some gifts for people at home. It was very strange to finally be a tourist in this place where I’ve lived for the past 4 months, but I guess it’s good practice for my next week (during which I am probably taking a trip to Kenya and/or Tanzania with my host sister–more on that as details develop), and probably a good step in the process of attempting to readjust to life in America.

Even though I’m excited about traveling with my sister and looking forward to going home, the end of the program has definitely been bittersweet.  It has been really weird to say goodbye to the friends I’ve made here as they leave for their flights home. I haven’t written much about my program-mates in the blog, but they were generally very amazing people. I am going to miss hanging out with this group a lot. Of course we will keep in touch, which is one of the beauties of living in the digital age, but it’s still a bummer to be splitting up. I also just can’t believe the program is over. It has definitely been hard at times, as you’ve heard, but it was such a phenomenal experience. I’m sad that it’s coming to a close.

But I don’t want to take up a lot of space complaining about that. All things in life eventually end, but that just opens the door for a new opportunity or experience. I think I will close this blog entry there, because I don’t have anything too eventful to talk about right now. I hope that next time I post, I will have some good stories from my Kenya/Tanzania trip. For now, I just want to say happy mother’s day to my mom, my stepmom, my grandmothers, and all the other mothers who might be reading:) Enjoy your day–you earned it!  Peace and love from a rainy Kampala. ~CMK


Greetings from Kampala!

Well, I have left the calm of Gulu and jumped right back into the hustle and bustle of the capital.  We are back at the hotel where we stayed during orientation week at the beginning of the program, and it’s kind of weird but also pleasant.  It doesn’t feel like enough time has passed to make it possible for us to be back here yet!  But it is actually really nice to be seeing the rest of the group again (since there were only five of us in Gulu, I am getting reacquainted with 27 other friends!), and it’s convenient to have so many more resources available.  I do miss Gulu already, but I guess that’s life, right?  And probably especially part of the life I have chosen.

There’s actually not a ton going on right now, as I’m spending my days buried in the write-up of the last six weeks (it’s progressing, slowly).  The ride back was fairly uneventful, though I did manage to count 43 speed bumps in a row, each with about one bus length in between them.  It was absurd, and took a really long time.  Then we enjoyed about 30 seconds of no speed bumps before we went over 43 more.  I don’t understand the need for that, in any way.

But considering that was one of the most interesting things I could think of about the last few days, I’ve decided to post the blog I’ve been planning about linguistics in Uganda.  I’ve been formulating a list of the common Uganda-isms for awhile, which I’ve grouped into two categories: one for mannerisms/things that are just unique to Ugandan English and one for things that translate in an amusing way.  I hope you’ll find it interesting and possibly amusing, but if you’re not into language things, then you might just skip this one.

Ugandan English:

I’ve already mentioned the propensity for asking questions when speaking.  (For instance: “This is my what? My chart.”)  This is common, especially among the Baganda (and most people from central Uganda, around Kampala).  But I’ve also noticed that among educated Baganda, there seems to be an attempt to squash this tendency for question-asking in the middle of sentences.  This results in a really strange progression of tonal sounds during each sentence, because these people use the same inflection in tone that occurs when someone is going to ask a question, but then the question doesn’t occur, and in its place there is usually some sort of a pause or sound that indicates there is a “what” being suppressed.  (For instance: “this is my-eeee pause chart.”)  It’s pretty funny, and somewhat distracting once you start noticing it. This happens a lot during lectures, unfortunately.

Another common lecture phrase is used to check for comprehension/attention.  The lecturer will often say, “Are we together?” which I guess is the equivalent of “are you with me?” or something along those lines in the U.S.  They slur the words together a lot, though, and when I first encountered the phrase I didn’t even recognize it as English.

One of my absolute favorite pieces of Ugandan English is the use of the word “sorry.”  People here say “sorry” all the time.  First of all, it’s important to note that it is the translation of the Luganda word “bambi,” (not pronounced like the Disney movie, but with an “ah” sound…) which means something along the lines of “oh no/poor thing/too bad.”  It seems to me that in general, “sorry” in our English carries more of an implication of guilt with it.  You say “sorry” if you caused something that harmed someone else, but usually not if it’s not your fault (with the exception of conveying condolences about a death, I think).  But here, “sorry” is used in all circumstances.  If someone trips, bumps their head as they’re getting into the taxi, drops something, gets hit by a passing bicycle, etc., you say “Sorry! Sorry!”  Also, in Luganda, “r” and “l” are pronounced basically the same way, which often results in this expression sounding like “Solly, solly!”  I really like this use of it, because it makes a lot more sense than what I would normally say in the situation, which would be something along the lines of “oh, careful!” or “watch out,” both of which make no sense if the person has already had a mishap.

Another of my favorite things that people say here is “you are welcome.”  Whenever you enter ANYWHERE, be it someone’s home, a hotel, a store, or even if you walk up to a kiosk on the street, people welcome you.  I really like it, because it’s so friendly and warm.  I’ve started using this one myself as well.

I think I mentioned a while ago that restaurants don’t always have all the food on their menu.  When you inquire for a specific food (take peas for example) people usually say “they are there,” or “they are not there.” But sometimes, if they don’t have the food you are looking for, they will tell you “it is missing,” which I find amusing.  It makes me want to ask if they can go find it.

Then there is the use of the word “somehow.”  The meaning of that word here is something along the lines of “sort of,” or “a little bit.”  An example of how it is used: “I live somehow near the hospital,” or “The course is somehow difficult.” I like this one too, and have caught myself describing things as “somehow far” from time to time.

Ugandan people also have a propensity to add the word “please” onto a lot of things, which I find funny because in Luganda, the word for “please” is hardly ever used.  In fact, I never even learned a word for please.  But in English, if you call someone’s name, they will often respond, “yes please?”  And then there’s: “thank you please” and “welcome please,” for both sides of the thanking equation.  Those make me smile every time.

One of the truly great Ugandan English phrases, in my opinion, is their description of a general crowd of people, which can be applied when talking about the world at large or a general admissions ticket to a concert.  This ambiguous crowd of people, mixed together and not organized in any particular way, is called “General Happiness.”  I think it’s a fantastic way to describe such a situation.  General happiness.  It’s beautiful, isn’t it

Lost in Translation:

Anyone who has studied a foreign language in her past knows that sometimes things simply don’t translate into another language.  Greetings are sort of like this in Uganda.  I know I’ve mentioned that they are very important, and indeed they are.  When you greet someone, you have to ask them how their night was (if it’s the morning), and then you can proceed to how their family is, and thank them for the work that they do.  I especially like this last one.  As my Luganda teacher explained it, you always thank them, even if they’re not doing anything at the moment, because they might have done some work earlier in the day or the day before.  In Acholi, however, one way of greeting someone is by saying “Apoyo,” which literally translated means “thank you,” but in the context of a greeting is also thanking someone for the work they’ve done.  This means that sometimes when native Acholi speakers greet people in English, they will walk up to you and say “well done!” This was terribly confusing at first, but totally makes sense when you see where it comes from.

The other terribly confusing translation difficulty comes in telling time.  Occasionally, when you ask someone what time it is, they will tell you it is 4 when it is ten, or that it is twelve when it is six, and I’ll do the same when I’m talking about time in Luganda.  This is because in Uganda, they talk about time very differently than we do in English.  They use the same clock, but 7:00 is called 1:00 here, because that is the time when most people start their days.  Then the time just progresses from there.  It kind of makes sense when you think about it, but it’s very confusing.

The last translation difficulty is not something I run into a lot, but is worth noting.  The Luganda word “okujagala” means “to like,” “to love,” and “to want.”  I guess it’s similar to Spanish, but it’s somehow more confusing here.  If you think about it, “I like,” “I love,” and “I want” are all extremely different statements, and there is no way to really tell them apart, especially with my limited Luganda vocabulary.

I am sure that there are more of these, but these were the best ones that I’ve recorded over time.  Also, there would probably be more if this were not such a heavily English-speaking country.  Anyway, that’s about all for now. Back to the paper. Hope all is well there! ~CMK

Where did the last three months go?

Greetings all,

As I write this, I am 2.5 weeks away from my flight home, and I’ve hit an odd place in my experience.  I find myself increasingly viewing things through a strange lens of transience, often jumping in my thoughts to how different things will be when I get home, instead of just soaking in the experience and accepting it for what it is.  I get sort of mad when I catch myself doing it, because I feel like that decreases the impact of the real experience, to be constantly comparing it to something I’m anticipating.  When I am navigating my way down the dirt road to our house each night, using my flashlight to step around potholes and spots with a particularly large amount of mud that will squelch over my flip flops and in between my toes, trying not to get hit by NGO vehicles with the obnoxious massive antennae, politely declining the boda boda drivers who pull up next to me and say “yes sister, we go?” while maintaining good Ugandan manners and greeting everyone who I pass, I shouldn’t be thinking “wow, when I get home, getting around is going to be so different.”  But I do find myself thinking things like that more and more (even if I’m smiling in appreciation of the current experience).

I am still really enjoying my time here and know I am going to miss Uganda so much when I get back, but my thoughts are increasingly on the life that is waiting for me back in the States.  My friends and I are already planning the first things we’re going to do when we get home.  Ideas range from spending a day at the spa to eating cheesecake to just sleeping.  My list is still forming, but includes Starbucks, foods that are unavailable here like grilled cheese sandwiches and ice cream, a long hot shower (first item on the agenda!), watching The Office, and of course spending time with all of you people!  I feel like I am getting ahead of myself, and I’m somewhat surprised that I keep thinking about these things, because I really don’t feel homesick.  I guess I’m just sort of excited to get back to what I know, and maybe to have some time to process everything I’ve seen and done here.  And suddenly, my journey home is starting terribly soon.  I can tell because my massive container of malaria prophylaxis is getting extremely close to empty.  2.5 weeks is no time at all compared to the time I’ve already spent here, but a lot can also happen in that time; it’s not like I’m leaving tomorrow.

I’m trying to make the most of it, by doing the things that I’ve been thinking about but haven’t gotten around to doing yet.  We ate some of the local food (native to the North, and not all of Uganda) that we hadn’t eaten yet today for lunch, I’m trying to get the rest of my postcards written and sent (though I will probably beat them there at this point), and I might be convinced to try eating ants if the opportunity presents itself (they’re eaten widely here, though I wouldn’t exactly call them a delicacy).  I also kind of want to go rafting on the Nile, but we’ll see if I have time/money/a companion with which to do that after the program ends.

Today is our last full day in Gulu—we’re leaving tomorrow morning to go back to Kampala.  I’m definitely going to be sad to leave this place and all the friends I’ve made here.  As I type this, I’m sitting at the bar/internet café that has become our favorite hangout.  We’ve come to know almost all of the staff, as well as many of the regular customers.  I’m going to miss walking in there and being greeted by my name.  I’ve enjoyed living the small town life for awhile.

It’s interesting, because I think this is the most immersed I’ve been in a community in my whole life, and I was only here for five weeks.  I know all of the little shops on the main street, and which ones have the juice and peanut butter I like (the peanut butter guy even knows me now).  And I know which gas stations are most likely to have kerosene for our stove, even when there’s a fuel shortage.  I’ve gotten used to riding motorcycles around, and am going to miss that thrill and the wind in my hair when I have to go back to riding taxis and sitting in “the jam.”  I never quite got used to the cockroaches in our kitchen, and I don’t think I’m going to miss those.  It’s been a really fun five weeks, and I’m sad it’s coming to an end.  But I’ve packed my suitcase, said my goodbyes, and am all set to go back to Kampala tomorrow.  It seems like people here don’t really make a big deal of goodbyes, which I like.  I am usually one to try to slip out the back door while everyone is looking the other way instead of going through dramatic farewells.  Here, they just say something along the lines of “we’ll meet,” or “nice time,” which is one of my favorite Uganda-isms, and maybe give you an affectionate handshake, then you’re on your way.  Of course, you’ve exchanged phone numbers and possibly e-mail addresses, so you’ll be hearing from them later, but the point still stands.

So another chapter of the adventure is closing, but the journey isn’t over yet.  I hope I’ll still have a lot to write about in the next few weeks.  I’m going to let this be a short post today, because who says I need to write a novel every time, anyway?  I’ll give my readers a break, and save my words for the largest paper I’ve ever written, which is due in a few days.  I hope all is well in your world.  In peace, CMK.

Procrastination via blog

Hello there,

Sorry it has kind of been awhile since my last post.  The whole internet thing was much too difficult to deal with more than once while I was in Apac, and it has been quite the eventful few days since I returned to Gulu, so I’m just now getting around to writing an update.  (Though, I really should be writing my paper instead.  I just would rather write this.  I just wish I were getting graded on my blog instead of on the paper!)

I really enjoyed the rest of the time that I spent in Apac last week.  I definitely like small towns…at least in small doses.  I loved just walking around there, talking to people, and taking in the sights.  The training was pretty useful; I got a lot of information that I can use in my paper, and also learned a lot that I think will just be useful in my life in general, if I really want to do this international public health thing.  I also ended up making a lot of friends and having quite a bit of fun.  I was told before I went to Apac that people there were somewhat “hostile,” which was not really a comforting thing to hear.  (Similarly, I found out on the drive there that it is the place with the highest incidence of malaria infection in the country…also not comforting!)  I do have to admit that the hostility thing was somewhat true: at least in comparison to other places I have been in Uganda—notably Gulu—the people were less friendly.  I wouldn’t call them hostile, but it did take them a few days to warm up to me, an outsider.  I just tried to be patient, and to do little things to show them that I was on the same level they were, such as waiting in line to get lunch instead of jumping to the front of the line with the facilitators who I had come with, and sitting at the table with them even though I couldn’t understand their conversations since they were in the local language.

After a few days went by, I started making friends.  It was an interesting dynamic, because I was the only one there who was not married, and one of the few who didn’t have children.  They found a lot of amusement in poking fun at me because I was still a “baby” by their standards.  I found out that in the Langese culture (the Langese are the ethnic group that mostly live in that area), you are considered a “girl” until you have delivered a baby, at which time you are seen as a “woman.”

It’s so interesting how ridiculously important it is here to be married and to have children to fit into the community, especially for women.  Well, actually, for both sexes, in different ways.  For women, it’s very important because otherwise they are completely disenfranchised from decision-making in the community.  When they are married, they are allowed to attend community meetings, though I get the feeling that their opinions are still not taken into account that much.  For men, the idea of masculinity is very much tied to one’s ability to “produce.”  A man with many children is considered quite manly in most communities, though this conception is starting to shift a little bit.  There is a growing emphasis on family planning by health workers, but many politicians are still guilty of encouraging people to produce as many children as they can.  This is somewhat dangerous, because Uganda is currently experiencing what is called a “population explosion.”  It’s what happens when the birth rate surpasses the death rate, and is often linked to an improvement of living standards.  The improvement means that people are not dying as quickly, but the mindset is still aligned with the previous situation where death was much more common.  So for example, people will still plan to have 6 children, so that if two die, they will still be left with enough to help them with household duties.  But then, since living conditions have improved, maybe only one child will die, and the family ends up with one more child than they bargained for.  Multiply this by all the households in the country, and you get a population explosion.

Having children has just become embedded in this culture; everyone who is married has at least 2 children, but most have more than that.  If your marriage doesn’t produce children, it’s considered quite unlucky, and a man can leave his wife if she isn’t becoming pregnant within a reasonable amount of time.  Here, divorce is fairly uncommon, and you must present a “good reason” or the divorce will not be granted.  Failure to bear children is considered grounds for divorce, as is cheating with another man.  But I’m fairly sure that a woman would never be granted a divorce if she accused her husband of cheating.  It’s sad, but apparently men’s cheating on their wives is extremely widespread here.  The rates of HIV infection are increasing faster among married couples than any other group of people, and cheating behavior is kind of just accepted in the culture.  People still consider it wrong, but they also consider it reality.

There was one segment during the training in which one of the male facilitators was lecturing on a topic called “maternal health and family planning,” and he was talking about condoms as a method of family planning and preventing the spread of HIV and other STIs, then somehow it shifted.  I guess he was trying to be funny by asking everyone there if they had a condom on them, and they said “for what?” because none of their spouses were there.  Then he started saying something along the lines of, “well what are your husbands doing right now? You’re gone for a whole week, and you expect them to just sit at home by themselves?”  That made me really angry, because of course I’ve heard talk about men cheating, but for him to say it so blatantly and to sort of taunt them like that just seemed very wrong.  Especially since he is actually on the progressive side of the spectrum in terms of stuff like this.

Wow. Anyway, that was a total tangent. The point is, even though we were coming from totally different places, I managed to make friends with a lot of the other participants.  They even gave me a Ugandan name: Akello Christine.  The Christine is unofficial, but it really does feel like my Ugandan name…people seem to always shorten Christina to Christine. But even though I hate being called Christine in the U.S., I don’t mind it here, maybe because they pronounce it differently and it sounds less pretentious.  They put the emphasis on the first syllable: “CHRIS-tine.”  I’m really fond of Akello as a surname though.  One of my friends here in Gulu has the same name and he said that it means that I’m his sister.  Cute.  In hindsight, I’m realizing that week was the longest period of time that I have spent here without seeing any other Americans (or any foreigners, actually).  It was a solid week of hanging out with only Ugandans, and it was really fun.

The training ended on Friday, and I was supposed to get a ride back to Gulu with the person who was scheduled to give the closing remarks from the funding organization, which is based in Gulu.  Unfortunately, he didn’t end up coming—apparently he had another meeting at the same time and so he remained in Gulu.  It’s really funny, because this type of thing happens kind of frequently, where someone has a conflict that they clearly knew about in advance, but still agreed to do something else at the same time.  Then they end up flaking out on the agreement, and I just wonder, why didn’t they turn it down in the first place?  I don’t really get it.

Anyway, so I was left without a way to get back and had to navigate the public transportation system, which was a little daunting at first.  Luckily, two other women from the training were traveling in the same direction and they helped me figure it out.  We ended up riding most of the way in a pick-up truck that was delivering some building materials to a town sort of midway between Apac and Gulu.  This is an unofficial method of transportation—it’s usually cheaper than a taxi, and in my opinion, more fun.  I really wanted to ride in the back of the truck (they load the back too so they can make more money), but since we were women, and some of the first passengers, we got to sit in the cab with the driver.  He dropped us off at some town I had never heard of and from there, one of my new friends found me another form of unofficial taxi that was going to Gulu.  This one seemed to be just some guy’s car, which was about the size of a Subaru, and he was cramming as many people as he possibly could into it.  At one point there were 8 people plus the driver in the car, with people even sitting in the trunk area.  It was quite the experience.  I actually really enjoyed the trip back and found it really fun to use these unconventional methods of transportation, the sardine-like cramming notwithstanding.  As we were passing through the bright green Ugandan countryside, bouncing up and down as we chose the smallest potholes to drive through, and I was being given lessons about which crops were which, I was feeling so ecstatic.  I realized I was actually really happy in that moment, even though we weren’t doing anything too incredible.  I was just fantastically content.  Combined with the good experience I had at the conference, I was in great spirits when I got home.

Unfortunately I found some bad news when I arrived back in Gulu.  One of my roommates is working at a school here, and one of the students at the school had just died the night before.  It’s a little unclear to us all of the factors that contributed to his death, but I think it was mostly the poor healthcare that I’ve been talking about so much.  He had some sort of a lung condition and didn’t have a lot of money, so when he was feeling sick he had to go to the government hospital (the one where I work).  Apparently they weren’t able to do much to help him, and he passed away 2 days later.  He was the same age as I am, and apparently was a really great person, though I had never met him.  It was just kind of a slap in the face/a harsh dose of reality.  I think that what made it even harder to take was to see the way other people reacted to his death.  The director of the school seemed to take it very lightly and was disapproving when my roommate was crying when she heard the news.  I guess maybe people here need to develop sort of a thick skin about this kind of stuff to continue to function in their world, but it’s kind of disconcerting to see people barely taking note of a major event like this.  I feel like Uganda has been kind of like that—just when I start having a lot of fun and almost forgetting about all of the massive problems that exist here, a reality check that I can’t ignore pops up.  Then they just keep coming.  Isn’t it weird how things like that seem to happen in groups?

Another sort of reality check happened right after that.  The aforementioned roommate had not been feeling well for awhile, but didn’t think there was anything seriously wrong.  Then the other night, she woke me up at 3AM because she was suddenly feeling a lot worse.  We decided to go to the hospital to get it checked out.  Though there are several hospitals that are open 24 hours here, we opted for a private, not-for-profit hospital in the neighboring town that has a very good reputation for providing good care at a reasonable price (still too expensive for some Ugandans, but definitely affordable for us).  I had been wanting to check it out for research purposes, because I hear that is where many people from this area go for treatment if they can afford to pay a little and want to get good care, so I was sort of glad to have an opportunity to go.  However, our experience there wasn’t great.  We waited around for over an hour, just to find out that the lab technician wasn’t there (even though he was supposed to be), so they couldn’t do any tests on her until 6AM.

As I was standing outside making phone calls to try to figure out where else we could go, I saw the pediatric ward across the street.  Through the windows I could see that there were tons of people crammed into the ward—I guess it looked kind of like one of those “typical” African hospitals that I have seen on TV, where people are just lined up on beds down the wall, with little space between them and no privacy at all.  I could hear babies crying, and then I noticed people sleeping on the sidewalks outside of almost every ward.  I just looked at it and felt so disgusted, thinking “And this is the GOOD hospital??”  From there we went to another health clinic that was about 15 minutes away by car (we were lucky, because one of the guys we know here, our landlord/friend, actually answered his phone and came to pick us up and drive us around in the middle of the night. I don’t know what we would have done without him.), and they did have a lab technician, though it also took forever.  I guess if you want speedy care, 4AM isn’t the time to go to the doctor… The doctor found that she had severe malaria, and he gave her treatment for it.  By the time we got home, it was around 8AM, and we were all exhausted.  She’s doing better now, but it was kind of jarring to realize how difficult it was for us to get her treatment, considering that we have access to a lot of things that the average Ugandan doesn’t.  Also, I just kept imagining how much easier the process would have been in the U.S., and it made me really frustrated that we weren’t there.

Anyway, now I’m basically just spending my days working on my paper.  I’m mostly done with “work” at the hospital, and my nutritionist friend is in Kampala for the week, so I don’t have much on the agenda for now.  Today we almost got our electricity taken away—that was eventful.  Before we lived in this house, a very respected international organization used it as its headquarters.  Apparently they just didn’t pay their electric bill for a long time (what an upstanding organization!), and racked up a major tab.  Our landlord negotiated for us at the beginning of our stay and got the electric company to turn it back on for a month for a set amount of money, but today two guys showed up at our house saying they were there to turn off the electricity.  We pleaded with them to wait until our landlord came, and he eventually convinced them not to do it today, and he is going to go to the main office tomorrow and negotiate.  So we’re safe for now, but keep your fingers crossed for us!  Power is out in all of Gulu tonight anyway, so I guess it doesn’t matter that much, but at least there’s a possibility that it will come back now.  It’s kind of annoying that power goes out all the time, but I’m actually getting kind of fond of the unpredictability.  It keeps things interesting.  I was just thinking about when I go back home and suddenly power works all the time, and I was thinking it’s actually going to be kind of boring.  Where’s the excitement in that, anyway?  Peace and love guys. ~CMK

Forgot to write a title for this one

Hello everybody,

I just want you all to know that it was very difficult to find internet access to post this blog entry, so you better appreciate it (haha, kidding. I mean, sort of…it was actually very difficult though. I am in a very rural place right now, with only one internet café that opens late, closes early, and has a ridiculously slow connection.) I just wanted to let you all know that I’m still alive and well; I didn’t want to disappear for too long. Anyway, a lot has happened since my last post. The aforementioned nutritionist, Albert, told me last week that he wanted to take me to a training he was doing on Infant and Young Child Feeding in Apac (pronounced “uh-patch”), which is the district just southeast of Gulu. I was pumped about the idea because it is very applicable to my practicum, and it sounded interesting. I found out the next day that the training was a week long, and it was going to make the most sense for me to travel back to Kampala on Saturday and then join him in traveling from there to Apac. It makes absolutely no sense geographically, since Kampala is about five times the distance from Gulu that Apac is, but apparently navigating public transportation between the two is rather difficult, so I opted for the longer but simpler route.

I left for Kampala on Saturday morning, and after sitting on the bus for two hours in the parking lot, we finally departed from Gulu. (Busses here don’t leave at set times; you just show up and get on, and it leaves when then conductor thinks it is full enough.) It was frustrating to sit there and think about how much longer I could have slept, but once we left, I remembered how much fun it is to travel through the Ugandan countryside, watching the endless fields of green pass by the window. I also was reminded of my absolute favorite part of traveling by bus in Uganda: the “rest stops.” Now, I don’t know how many of you have experience traveling by bus in the U.S., but in my experience, I find that most busses there very rarely make stops. Of course, those busses have bathrooms on board, and public transportation operates completely differently in the U.S., but it’s worth comparing. The busses here stop all the time! I think that people can get on and off at many points along the route, and if it stops at certain points in small towns, there are vendors who position themselves along the bus routes and sell things to the bus passengers. But the most convenient thing is that you don’t even have to get off the bus to buy yourself a snack; the vendors essentially charge the bus as it is stopping and shove various items up to the windows to try to entice the passengers. I think one of my favorite memories from this whole trip is the image of about twenty vendors running after my bus and trying to sell bottled water, pieces of meat on sticks, and live chickens through the bus windows. I wasn’t able to take a picture this time, but I definitely will next time. It is just something that needs to be photographed.
So I spent one night in Kampala with my host family and then I met Albert and the rest of the team for the trip at the Ministry of Health. I have to say it was nice to be “home” in Kampala, even if only for a short time. Surprisingly, I even rather enjoyed the addition of matooke (which I have been avoiding like it’s my job since I started controlling my own food intake) to our supper. I felt bad that I only was able to spend one night there, but it was fun anyway.

The next morning, our trip to Apac started off kind of strangely. It was somewhat cool that morning (maybe about 60 degrees F), and Albert showed up to the Ministry of Health wearing a knit winter hat. People here are so funny about the weather. What they define as cold is so entirely different from what I think of as cold. I thought the weather was rather nice that morning, but apparently it was freezing. Anyway, we waited for over an hour and a half for the vehicle that was supposed to take us to come and pick us up to take us “up country”. We kept calling the driver, and he kept giving excuses about why he wasn’t there and saying he would be there very soon, but it took forever. Then it turned out that the vehicle was bringing an extra person up with us and there wasn’t room in the pick-up truck for all of us. We spent about another half an hour trying to figure out how to fit 5 passengers plus the driver into a double cab pick-up. We ended up squeezing four people into the back seat. It was terribly uncomfortable, and it was quite the lengthy and bumpy ride. I kept seeing the signs counting down how far Gulu was, and thinking, “it’s only been 10km??? I’m not going to make it!”

Then we took a shortcut that crosses the Nile River via ferry instead of driving around to a bridge. The “ferry” was the most basic one I have ever seen—it was essentially a largish raft with two motorized propellers attached and a few railings. But they loaded our pickup, another car, many motorcycles, and about 40 people onto it and we crossed without incident. I did take a picture of this one, and I will definitely post it when I get back to Gulu.

The rest of the journey up was rather uneventful, though we did see some monkeys along the road, as well as a creature they called a Monitor Lizard, which looked to me like a small crocodile. Our driver skillfully avoided many cows, goats, and chickens that were hanging out on or crossing the road, and we arrived in Apac safely.

This town is one of the most rural places I’ve been since arriving in Uganda, second only to the place I stayed during the rural homestay. There is one main road, with the center of town marked by a traffic circle. I don’t think they get many mzungus around these parts, because I created quite the stir as I was walking home from the training yesterday. People were staring and children were jumping up and down, pointing, and yelling “mzungu!” I think it’s going to be confusing when I go back home and people don’t completely freak out when I walk by. The anonymity is going to be strange, after standing out so much here. The people I traveled here with keep talking about how Apac is not developing, and how terrible it is. I can definitely see why they would say it’s not developing; it is certainly a simple and rural town that doesn’t seem to be making any effort to change, but I don’t necessarily see anything wrong with that. If people are happy living here as it is, why change it? This is a concept I’ve been thinking about a lot, especially while I’ve been traveling through the countryside and observing rural life. It makes me wonder, “How much do we really need to be happy?” Because on the one hand, it seems wrong to me, as someone who has grown up with the luxuries that I have, that people have to live in these conditions where they don’t have electricity, the whole family lives in a small hut, the schools don’t have windows, etc… But on the other hand, things here are clearly functional. If people can get by in these conditions, why do we need to keep making things bigger and better, you know? I definitely think that things that impede safety should be improved, but at a certain point I think sometimes we just “develop” places for the sake of development, and it isn’t actually entirely necessary.

On a related note, about knowing how much one needs to get by, the hotel that Albert wanted to stay in was full by the time we got here (there is no such thing as making reservations in most of Uganda), so we found a less desirable one near the edge of town (which is, of course, about a 5 minute walk from the center of town). It’s a simple hotel, and we are only paying $2.50 a night for it! This is highly exciting to me, because I have already used up the stipend money that SIT gave us to cover our expenses during the practicum (I largely blame the trip to the hospital, which used nearly a quarter of it in one night), so now I am paying for things out of the pocket money that I brought with me. Obviously, the money that I brought goes a lot farther here than it would in the U.S., but I also brought far less money with me for the semester than I would have used in a semester in the U.S.. Anyway, my companions complain about the hotel, but I think it’s fine. I mean, how much more does one need in a hotel room than a bed and a bed net? It’s not luxurious, but it’s functional.

The only complaint I really have is the shower situation. By now, I am getting used to cold bucket showers, but I’m used to taking them at night, when you’re already hot and sweaty, so a cold shower is somewhat refreshing. Here, it’s so hot at night that you always need to take a shower in the morning, because you basically sweat all night (too much information? Sorry!). So at any rate, the shower situation during this stay is such that it is a freezing cold bucket shower in an outside stall that doesn’t have a door at around 6am, when it’s actually somewhat cold outside. It takes some serious guts to dump a bucket of cold water on yourself in that situation. Try it sometime! I have to say I think it is my worst shower experience. So the next time you are getting into your nice, steamy shower in your own bathroom, take a moment to think of me and say, “thank goodness I’m not as insane as Christina!” All the same, I still have to remember that I am lucky because I know this is temporary. I can complain about it all I want, and yes, I am pretty unhappy at the moment when that cold water is first hitting my body and I’m thinking “Why did I come here again???” but I know it’s temporary, and in a month I’ll be back at home enjoying my nice hot showers again, while people here will still be doing this. And of course, the showers are really the least of most people’s worries here, but the concept applies to everything. All of the things that I am seeing, hearing, feeling, and experiencing here are only temporary for me, whereas for the people I’m meeting, this is their reality. And sometimes that is hard to accept.

Yesterday, during the training we went to the local hospital to practice counseling mothers on infant feeding practices. (Maybe I should stop for a moment to say that the people participating in this training are all health workers from clinics in this district and a neighboring district, so this is a task that they would probably do on a normal day at work.) The woman that my group counseled turned out to be 22 years old (so basically my age). She had brought her 6-week-old baby into the clinic for immunization, and we found out that this was her third child. She was also HIV-positive. Our visit with her really hit me hard, because it was like looking at myself in some sort of a weird mirror. I just kept looking at her and grappling with the fact that though we are so close in age, our lives are so drastically different. I basically realized that the only thing that was separating the two of us was luck of the draw. Had I been born in Uganda instead of in the U.S., my life could easily be exactly like hers at this point. It was hard for me to look at her and visualize what her future would be like because for her, this is basically all there is. I have so much growth and so many opportunities to look forward to in my future, but she won’t have these opportunities, and her life will likely not change that much from today until the day she dies. And that feels very unfair to me.

Sorry to end on a sort of depressing note again, but I think this has become long enough, and I’m out of time. Peace and love from Apac. ~CMK

When you wish upon a star…

Greetings all,

Sorry if my last post is sort of a downer.  Good news though: I think things are starting to turn around here, so hopefully the next few posts will be a bit more upbeat.  We have traded our live-in plumbers for live-in tile guys for the week, and the plumbers were nice enough to make one bathroom functional until they come back and fix them all this weekend.  (Granted, there is definitely no hot water, and the floor is flooded from leaking pipes, but it’s functional.) They are making serious progress on renovating the house, which is cool to see even though the workers do have an annoying tendency to start working very early, even on weekends.

My roommates and I spent most of the weekend just hanging out, which was probably good for all of our mental health.  We finally got around to going to the Ethiopian restaurant here, which was delicious.  We also met Gulu’s resident drug dealer. He frequents our favorite bar/internet cafe that is right down the road from our house and we have some mutual friends. He owns a shop near the Ethiopian restaurant, and is a really crazy character. The funny thing is that his shop is pretty normal–we checked it out when we were in the area.  He sells cooking oil, juice, bread–all the things one finds in an average Ugandan grocery shop–but he also sells pot off the books, from the same shop, and sits around and smokes with various customers without much subtlety.  (And smoking marijuana is a crime in Uganda. We’re surprised people don’t complain, but he seems very comfortable in his routine.) Don’t worry, he’s totally safe, and we were careful, but it was quite the interesting experience.

As a culmination to my weekend on Sunday night, I was laying out on our porch and doing a little stargazing.  (It’s so nice to be able to have the free time to do stuff like that, and you can see so many more stars here than at home or in Kampala.)  I was feeling frustrated about my practicum and wondering when the next 3 weeks would be over so I could just be done with it already, and then I saw the coolest shooting star I have ever seen in my life.  It just streaked across the whole sky, steadily and slowly.  I actually had to do a double take to make sure it wasn’t an airplane, but then it disappeared into the darkness, the way shooting stars do, and I knew I was right.  It was beautiful, with the backdrop of the African sky behind it, and it just made me feel a lot more calm about everything.  I made a wish, of course.  I can’t tell you what it was or it won’t come true, but I will say that I think it has started coming true already.

On Monday, I had been promised a meeting with some sort of nutritionist who works in Gulu, who was rumored to be starting up a nutrition outreach program this month.  He had just said we would meet in the morning, so I got to the hospital at 9 as usual and waited around for him to show up.  11:30 rolled around and he still wasn’t there.  That’s the time that I usually start getting impatient and decide to leave (and there are only 3 patients in the ward now, so it’s quieter than ever–which is good of course, but boring. Apparently the “hunger gap” usually occurs in May, so this is the calm before the storm), but I decided to give him a call just in case, and he said he was coming.  He arrived at the ward about 15 minutes later, telling me that he was very sick with malaria, but declined my offer to move our meeting to another day.  (As a sidenote, the doctor in the ward also had malaria that day, and couldn’t work because he had to receive IV treatment for it.  I really can’t believe how endemic malaria is here.  It’s SUCH a problem…something really needs to be done about it.)  Anyway, the nutritionist made a little bit of small talk and then cut right to the chase and asked me what exactly it was I wanted, anyway.  I was surprised at his directness (Ugandans are usually pretty roundabout with their conversations), and tried to recover quickly and said something along the lines of wanting to see if there was anything I could do to help with his outreach program.  To my surprise (again), he said “oh, very much!” and basically took off at a run from there.  (His name is Albert, by the way.  Uganda is full of quirky, old-school names like that.)  That afternoon, he took me to a meeting that he was having with the head nutritionist for a very well-known international agency in Uganda, which was pretty cool.  They talked about the plan for rolling out this new framework for monitoring nutrition and preventing malnutrition in children, and outlined indicators for measuring their progress, as well as how they were going to expand it to surrounding towns and districts.  It was a really efficient and fast-moving meeting, which was very refreshing after dealing with so much bureaucracy in Uganda and in non-profit things in general, and it made me really excited about possibly being part of it.

Then I spent yesterday and today attending other meetings with him, which were attended by a combination of NGOs, funders, and the government.  They are trying to recover from the haphazard way that aid was distributed during the war and set up a system that actually makes sense, where NGO services are coordinated with government and Ministry of Health services, and overlap is eliminated.  I think it’s a really good idea, though the meetings were less productive than I would have liked. (Yesterday it went from 9AM to 5:30PM and they still agreed on almost nothing concrete. So much for the efficiency of the day before.) That was slightly frustrating, but I think it was 1) the first step towards something that could be really cool, and 2) a good learning experience for me, as someone who thinks she wants to work in a capacity similar to this later in life.  I also got some good information that is relevant to my research, which might mean that I have a chance of doing well on the paper I have to write at the end of this all.  And I just think it’s really cool that I was actually at the headquarters of such a well-known international agency! 🙂

I’ve decided that Albert is a pretty crazy guy–he moves at lightning speed and doesn’t ever sit still.  I think he’s one of those people that takes on way more than he should (yes, I admit, kind of like me), but he’s trying to take me along with him as he does all this stuff, which promises to be very interesting.  I think there should be plenty of things I can help with, but so far he hasn’t really utilized me in doing any tasks.  He did promise to bring me along on one of the trainings he is doing in a neighboring district next week, though, which I’m really excited about.  I’m thinking about it this way: if I end up being able to help him, that will be great, and it will make me feel better about taking up his time as he teaches me stuff; but if it turns out that he doesn’t have a job for me to do, at least this stuff is way more relevant to my research and is a lot more uplifting than my hospital work.

Anyway, sorry… I think the stuff about the research is probably pretty boring for you all, even though it’s super interesting to me, so I will try to cut back on that from here on out.  I just wanted to let you all know that I was doing a lot better than I was when I wrote the last post.  And truth be told, I haven’t been doing too much outside of research/work, if you want to call it that.  So as far as posts in the near future go: I think I’ll try to post more pictures in the next couple of days, and I am formulating a post about language/linguistics in my head, so that should be coming soon.  Also, I promise there is a gender post coming eventually.  It’s just such a massive topic, I’m having trouble tackling it.  If anyone reading has a request about something you want me to write about, feel free to leave a comment and let me know.  It’s starting to rain and get really windy now, so I’m afraid we might lose power (and as a result, internet) soon, so I’m going to post this now.  Peace and love from Uganda. ~CMK